Maheshwar Diaries: Discovering the Grace and Grit of Devi Ahilyabai Holkar

Photo Courtesy: Mr. Rajendra Adhikari,
Director of Studies, Nepal Administrative Staff College (NASC), Nepal

There’s a unique sense of anticipation that tingles in the air when you land in a new city. But when I landed at Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar Airport in Indore for the Faculty Development Program at IIM Indore, my curiosity sparked—not just by the city, but by the remarkable woman whose name seemed to echo everywhere.

Who was Devi Ahilyabai Holkar, I wondered? Her name adorned the airport, the university, and countless public institutions across Madhya Pradesh. It wasn’t long before I found my answer—not just through facts, but through a deeply moving experience that unfolded in the historic town of Maheshwar.

A Royal Detour – Maheshwar, the Capital of Grace and Grit

Accompanied by fellow participants and travel friends —Ms. Achala Dahal and Mr. Rajendra Adhikari from Nepal, and friends Dr. Govind and Ms. Saritha from India—we journeyed to Maheshwar, once known as Mahishmati, nestled on the tranquil banks of the Narmada River.

The moment we entered Maheshwar Fort, the air felt charged with history. The Raja Rajeshwara Temple, the shrine to Lord Shiva, the Karthiverjun Temple and Ahilyeshwar Temple stood as timeless guardians of devotion and architecture.

 

Our guide, Mr. Manoj Kewat, brought the past alive with stories of valor, loss, and love for the motherland—stories that revolved around one incredible woman: Devi Ahilyabai Holkar.

The Queen Who Rebuilt a Nation’s Soul

Born in 1725 in the village of Chondi (Maharashtra), Ahilyabai’s rise to power was as unlikely as it was legendary. Trained in statecraft by her father-in-law Malhar Rao Holkar, she assumed the reins of the Holkar kingdom after the untimely deaths of her husband and son. Despite immense personal loss, she transformed sorrow into strength and led with unshakable resolve.

Between 1767 and 1795, she ruled not from a throne of power, but from a seat of dharma (righteousness). She was not only a warrior queen but a nation builder, reviving crumbling temples, encouraging trade, building schools, and standing firm against social evils. Her governance was rooted in justice, equality, and compassion—rare traits in any era.

As we walked through Maheshwar, we saw her legacy not in ruins, but in resilience. The looms of Maheshwari sarees still sing her name. The ghats where she once meditated now welcome pilgrims and wanderers like us. The Narmada River, which she worshipped, still flows in quiet reverence to her memory.

Threads of Legacy: Weaving and Wisdom

Ahilyabai was a patron of the arts and an early supporter of industrialization in her own way—she encouraged handloom weaving in Maheshwar, turning it into a hub for the now-iconic Maheshwari textiles. Even today, these sarees carry a royal elegance and craftsmanship that mirrors her refinement and taste.

But beyond economic empowerment, she was a social reformer far ahead of her time. She built over 100 temples across India—from Kashi Vishwanath in Varanasi to temples in Dwarka, Rameswaram, and beyond. 

She championed widow remarriage, opposed sati, and emphasized education and women’s dignity—ideas that were revolutionary during the 18th century and remain inspiring even today.

An Encounter with Grace

Our guide narrated stories not from textbooks, but from the heart. He spoke of a ruler who walked among her people, who wrote letters of advice to kings and administrators across India, and who donated her own wealth to support the poor, rebuild cities, and aid travelers and pilgrims.

I was struck not only by her administrative brilliance but by her spiritual depth, compassion, and courage to lead alone, after losing her entire family. 

As we watched the sun dip below the Narmada horizon during our serene boat ride, I found myself overwhelmed by a quiet emotion. Gratitude—for having walked the path once ruled by a queen who was as much a sage as a sovereign.

A Journey That Lingers

This trip was more than a visit; it was an awakening. It reminded me that history isn’t always in the pages of books—it breathes in fort walls, flows in rivers, and weaves itself into fabric and memory.

Today, as I sit back in Indore, I feel her presence in every corner of this city. Devi Ahilyabai Holkar was not just a ruler. She was a visionary, a mother of the people, and a symbol of what leadership rooted in love and righteousness can achieve.

If you ever find yourself in Madhya Pradesh, take the detour to Maheshwar. Walk the fort. Listen to the river. And feel, even if for a moment, the strength of a woman who changed the course of a kingdom—and perhaps, even the soul of a nation.